As someone with breakout-prone skin, I’ve experienced every type of acne a person can get (including butt acne, neck acne, back acne, chest acne, and scalp acne). But a pimple on my lip very well may be my Roman Empire. And everyone who knows me—or has seen me waltzing around NYC with a pimple patch on my upper lip—probably knows it. Which probably explains why one of my besties immediately texted me last week when a painful zit on her lip line cropped up out of nowhere. "Pls, Beth, help me, I'm DYING," she texted at approximately 3am.
Having dealt with my fair share of lip pimples over the years, I've nailed down a handful of tips to soothe the pain and help heal them in the process. I even tapped dermatologists and a plastic surgeon for their expert-approved advice on getting rid of lip acne and preventing them from ever—ever–coming back.
Keep reading to find out what causes pimples on the lips, if a pimple on your lips is just a cold sore, and of course, how to get rid of a pimple on your lip asap.
What are lip pimples?
Ultimately, lip pimples are the same as any other pimple. They occur when your “skin cells stick together and trap oil under the skin’s outermost surface,” dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD, previously told Cosmo. This causes inflammation under your skin, which creates a bump that can be red, or purple/brownish, depending on your skin tone.
What causes pimples on the lips?
Pimples on lips are caused when a pore becomes clogged with dead skin cells and oil, leading to inflammation. As for what causes the initial clog, you can thank your hormones (which trigger your oil production) and your genetics (which can make you more likely to overproduce sebum). Another common cause of pimples on the lips? A lack of exfoliation, especially if you regularly wear lip products (see: your beloved pink lip gloss, sheer lip balm, and red lipstick).
“When dead cells aren't removed from the surface of your skin, they can get trapped with acne-causing bacteria inside your pores, leading to a blemish," says dermatologist Geeta Yadav, MD. Which makes sense. Like, when was the last time you swiped your chemical exfoliant right up against your sensitive lips? Exactly...which is why you need one of these formulas if you don’t have one already:
3 gentle exfoliators that won’t irritate your lips:
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Salicylic Acid Exfoliant
Bubble Moon Walk Gentle Exfoliating Serum
The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2%
Now there's a chance that you may not be dealing acne at all, says plastic surgeon Michele Koo, MD. Instead, the “pimple” on your lip may actually be a cold sore (more on that below), or an irritation-based rash (like a reaction from your toothpaste or facial hair-removal product), or a skin condition like perioral dermatitis (an inflamed, itchy, scaly rash that requires antibiotics or topical steroids to treat). Basically, as with all skin issues, you should make an appointment with a dermatologist (even virtually, if you hate leaving your bed) before trying to DIY a fix at home.
Why are lip pimples so painful?
Lip pimples are so painful because our lips contain a ton of nerve endings, making them highly sensitive to pain. So, “when there's inflammation or an infection around your lips, it can create a lot of tenderness,” says Dr. Yadav. To help decrease the pain of lip pimples at home, Dr. Yadav recommends holding a warm compress against the bump for 10 to 15 minutes up to four times day, then dabbing on 1 percent hydrocortisone cream once in the morning and then again at night. And remember: You can always head to your dermatologist for a cortisone shot to quickly neutralize your zit if it’s too bothersome.
How do I get rid of a pimple on my lip?
To get rid of a pimple on your lip, you’ll want to make sure you’re following a consistent skincare routine that involves cleansing and exfoliating your skin (to help prevent lip pimples from popping up in the future) and also spot-treating your pimple to reduce inflammation and pain. Here’s a breakdown:
1. Exfoliate your lips
“Exfoliating your lips on a regular basis is key to preventing lip pimples,” says Dr. Yadav. And no, that doesn’t mean scrubbing your lips with an intense, gritty lip scrub either. Instead, try an acid-based toner, says Dr. Koo. “Cleansing with a salicylic acid-toner can help kill acne-causing bacteria, get rid of the excess sebum, and allow your skin to heal,” says Dr. Koo. Just make sure to follow up with a lightweight moisturizer if your lips feel a little dry.
If you’re already dealing with a lip pimple, you can still use your toner, or dab on a salicylic acid-based spot treatment instead and cover it with a hydrocolloid pimple patch while you wait for your body to heal itself. Dr. Yadav also recommends gently massaging your lips two to three times a week with a warm washcloth to gently exfoliate, “which will effectively remove dead skin without depositing any potentially pore-clogging ingredients.”
4 makeup removers to try for your lip pimples:
Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water
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Milk Makeup Hydro Ungrip Makeup Remover
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Peace Out Blemish Balm Cleansing Balm
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Garnier SkinActive Micellar Cleansing Water
Credit: Courtesy Image2. Cleanse your lips every night
Make sure you’re taking off all your foundation, concealer, lip liner—whatever—every single night before bed. If you’re feeling a little lazy, just dab a makeup-remover towel in some water and swipe across your skin to break up some of the oils and pigments. Or leave a pack of makeup wipes in your bedside table for necessary occasions only (makeup wipes can leave pore-clogging gunk behind, which is why washing your face is always best).
3. Add acne-fighting retinoids to your routine
To treat and prevent new lip pimples from showing up, try adding a retinoid for acne, like adapalene, into your skincare routine to help speed up your cellular turnover and keep pores clear, suggests Dr. Koo. Just note that retinoids can be irritating at first, especially on an already-sensitive area like your lips, so start slowly: After moisturizing at night, smooth on the tiniest, grain-size dab of adapalene around your lip area once a week for two weeks, then twice a week for three weeks, then three times a week indefinitely. And always slather on an oil-free moisturizer afterward to keep your skin hydrated.
Oil-free moisturizers that won’t irritate your lip pimples:
Shani Darden Weightless Oil-Free Moisturizer
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Summer Fridays Cloud Dew Oil-Free Gel-Cream
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Olay Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide24 Moisturizer
Now 20% Off
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Kiehl's Ultra-Facial Oil-Free Gel-Cream Moisturizer
Credit: Courtesy Image4. Switch to lightweight lip products
If you’re prone to lip pimples, “stay away from waxy, occlusive lip products, especially while you have an active lip pimple,” says Dr. Koo. Heavy formulas—especially those with irritants—can further irritate your skin and potentially lead to more inflammation. Instead, skip the balms and spread your oil-free moisturizer across and around your lips, or try a lightweight lip serum.
5. Soothe inflammation with heat
Holding a warm, damp washcloth against your lip pimple might lessen a little pain and tenderness. Pop a reusable gel heat pack in the microwave for 25 seconds and hold it against your pimple a few times a day. Just make sure to wipe the pack down with soap and water after each use.
6. Stick on a pimple patch
I am literally wearing a pimple patch on my lip pimple rtfn. These are made with hydrocolloid to help absorb the excess oils around your pimple and protect it from getting even more infected or inflamed (if you've ever gotten a cluster of zits on your lip line, you know why this is key). This can speed up healing time, plus help decrease the urge to pick and prod at your pimple. Outta sight, outta mind.
Our favorite pimple patches:
Starface Hydro-Stars
Now 13% Off
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Hero Cosmetics Mighty Patch Original
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Peach Slices Acne Spot Dots
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COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch
Credit: Courtesy Image7. Try hydrocortisone
When your lip pimple is majorly inflamed, just dab on a little 1 percent hydrocortisone cream to help bring down s“A tiny dot of hydrocortisone on a breakout can quickly diminish any redness and swelling,” dermatologist Elizabeth Hale, MD, previously told Cosmo. So when you've got a majorly inflamed lip pimple, just dab on a little 1 percent hydrocortisone cream, like CeraVe 1% Hydrocortisone Anti-Itch Cream.
8. Zap it with a high-frequency wand
High-frequency wands utilize low electrical currents to oxygenate your skin, which can help kill c.acnes bacteria on your skin. You just hold the device against your zit for a few seconds, and it basically "zaps" your zit. It doesn't hurt, necessarily—it feels like a like sting. "When I've used my high frequency wand on a cyst, papule, or whitehead—especially before it has the chance to fully form—it can help cut healing time in as much as half," says deputy beauty director Lauren Balsamo. FWIW, my go-to is NuDerma Clinical Skin Therapy Wand, which just happens to be a 2023 Acne Award winner. (!)
Should I pop a pimple on my lip?
No, “under no circumstances should you pop a lip pimple on your own,” says Dr. Yadav. “The thin skin around your lips is extremely delicate and scars easily, so it's better to have a pimple heal naturally rather than create a scab.” If you’re tempted to pop the pimple, stick on an opaque pimple patch to help you keep your hands off your skin, or you can dab on 1 percent hydrocortisone cream to help reduce some inflammation.
Is a pimple on your lip a cold sore?
A pimple on your lip could actually be a cold sore (aka not a pimple at all), which is why it’s so important to understand the differences in appearance and location and treat them correctly. Pimples are a bacterial infection, while cold sores are a virus, says Dr. Koo. “All lip cold sores are caused by herpes simplex virus—HSV1—and look like a watery blister,” Dr. Koo explains, adding that they often feel painful and usually take several weeks to resolve.
How do you know if you have a pimple or a cold sore, though? “Pimples will typically have one head that appears to be filled with pus, like a whitehead, or clogged sebum, like a blackhead, or no visible head at all,” says Dr. Yadav. “Cold sores, however, look like a cluster of blisters, which will be filled with a clear liquid, not pus.”
Keep in mind: A pimple and a cold sore are treated very differently, says Dr. Yadav. Cold sores require an antiviral medication, like an antiviral ointment, to help shorten the duration of the cold sore and prevent it from spreading. If you load spot treatments and salicylic acid toners on a cold sore, you’ll be left with an even more irritated bump.
How long does a lip pimple last?
A lip pimple will last anywhere from one to three weeks depending on how inflamed it is, says Dr. Koo. Why? “Unlike areas like the cheek and chin, which go relatively undisturbed throughout the day, your lips are frequently used, causing further irritation that can slow a pimple's ability to heal,” says Dr. Yadav. But a lip pimple can go away on its own, as long as you’re washing your makeup off every night before bed and keeping your skin moisturized.
Final thoughts:
If you’ve got a true pimple on your lip, don’t stress. It’s just the result of clogged pores from genetics, makeup, or not exfoliating enough. Swipe it with a salicylic acid toner, and wait for it to heal on its own. And if you get consistent pimples around your lips, maybe incorporate a retinoid for acne, like adapalene, to prevent breakouts. But pls remember: if you think you have a cold sore instead of a lip pimple, talk with your dermatologist for an antiviral treatment plan.
Meet the experts:
- Michele Koo, MD, is a board-certified plastic surgeon and the founder of Dr. Koo Private Practice in Aspen, CO. She is also the founder of a full skincare line, Dr. Koo Skincare.
- Geeta Yadav, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Facet Dermatology in Toronto, ON, CA. Dr. Yadav is an expert in both medical and cosmetic dermatology, as well as in treating concerns of BIPOC patients.
- Joshua Zeichner, MD, is is the Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research in Dermatology and an Associate Professor of Dermatology at the Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, NY. He is also the co-founder of Jori, a skincare line formulated specifically for adult acne.
- Elizabeth Hale, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Complete Skin MD in New York, NY and also a Clinical Associate Professor of Dermatology at the New York University Langone Medical Center.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with six years of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories that range from skin barrier to cleansing balms. She’s an authority in all skincare categories, but is an expert when it comes to pimples around your lips after a decade of dealing with acne. She regularly tests and analyzes acne products for efficacy, while working with the industry’s top dermatologists to assess new formulas and brands.
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Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers skincare, makeup, hair, nails, and more across digital and print. She can generally be found in bright eyeshadow furiously typing her latest feature or hemming and hawing about a new product you "have to try." Prior to Cosmopolitan, she wrote and edited beauty content as an Editor at The Everygirl for four years. Follow her on Instagram for makeup selfies and a new hair 'do every few months.
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